The fashion industry can sometimes feel like a bad boyfriend, especially where sustainability is concerned. You give him another chance, only to discover that he’s been lying to you all over again. Every time, he promises to do better.
Still, I remain an eternal optimist (or perhaps a blind one). I love creativity and I love clothes, and I want to believe that we can sustain these passions without destroying the planet and/or filling our lives with stuff.
It’s through this lens that I want to explore the topic of brand marketing - two words which have been popping up a lot in fashion conversations recently.
The word ‘marketing’ isn’t exactly synonymous with pure intentions. It’s a term we often associate with companies shifting products in tactical and wily ways. Those boots you looked at once that now follow you all over the internet. The email subject line that reads: “Did you forget something?” after you absentmindedly added to basket at 2am. Teams of people plotting to make you buy things you don’t need, squeezing sponcon through the seams of your daily life.
I recently re-read
’s book, The World is On Fire, But We’re Still Buying Shoes, in which he advocates for the BIFL approach to shopping. BIFL stands for: ‘Buy It For Life’, and it means buying things you truly love, that you’ll use for years to come. That doesn’t mean you have to wear them every day - you just have to feel emotionally connected enough to the piece that you won’t throw it away or replace it without a fight.This got me thinking about the ways in which we forge true connections with our clothes. Usually, it's via the oldest trick in the marketing book - storytelling. Whether these are stories we tell ourselves (RIP Joan Didion), or stories we inherit from outside sources, a sense of a greater narrative is what hooks us emotionally. This might be a reminder of a beloved relative, or a great time with friends. It could be an amazing holiday, or a band you’ve loved for years. Or, it could be a story a brand wants you to believe - the kind that comprises brand marketing.
So, what is brand marketing exactly?
Brand marketing is the long-term seeding of a core brand narrative. The story and values of a company which tell you who they are, and what they stand for, rather than just what they sell. Where performance marketing is all about making a quick buck, brand marketing is less measurable, because it concerns how we feel. It’s the reason we gravitate subconsciously towards certain brands, or feel instinctively that we ‘know what they’re about’. It can be measured on the bottom line eventually, but the return on investment (aka. ROI, meaning the money made as a result of the money put in) tends to be slower. That’s because it’s about building a long-term relationship with the customer - brand marketing is the marriage to performance marketing’s one night stand.
Without meaning to sound like I’m condoning overconsumption, I think that successful brand marketing can help move our shopping habits in the direction of Leach’s BIFL approach. Going back to the relationship analogy, a good marriage lasts a lifetime, and so should great clothes. When a brand tells a story that we connect with, it acquires emotional resonance. It becomes a familiar friend, something that makes us feel confident, inspired, excited. This means we’re likely to take better care of the things we buy from these brands, and love them for longer.
I think about the brands that I’ve encountered over the years that have made me feel something. Often the relationship began before I could afford to buy the product itself, but when I eventually did, it became a prized possession. I’ve got a black Céline jumper from the Phoebe Philo era that I bought secondhand a few years ago. Every time I wear it I feel connected to the universe of chic, intelligent women that she celebrated during that time.
I’ve also got four pairs of vintage Levi’s jeans, two denim jackets and a denim shirt. They look and feel reliable, versatile and perennially cool - just like the brand’s marketing suggests.
I wear my Ann Demeulemeester boots with pride, knowing that it took me years to learn how to pronounce her name, and to understand what that name represents. My well-trodden boots give me a regular dose of (slightly smug) ‘IYKYK’ prestige. Plus, they look great with everything.
Even my beloved Kara handbag has great brand marketing behind it. I remember logging onto their website and seeing some people I knew from around NYC modelling their e-commerce. That casting gave me the feeling that this was a brand who appreciated the same kind of people I did, and had some niche clout in the Downtown scene. I wanted to be a part of that.
Successful brand marketing brings more value to our clothes, and also means they hold their value for longer. Enter: the resale market. A strong brand story lasts for years, generations even. This story is not just a connector between a brand and a consumer, it’s also something that connects its audience to one another. Who doesn’t love gushing over Tom Ford’s Gucci? Or getting an approving nod from a stranger thanks to the rare Prada print you’re wearing on the train? Listen to Willy Ndatira’s podcast episode and you’ll hear him describe his “Telfar conversation starters” - times when wearing the brand resulted in charming encounters with fellow fans. If a brand can tell an authentic story about their product, then that’s a story we’ll want to keep hearing and re-telling over and over again.
Of course, there’s plenty of brand marketing that persuades you to buy things you don’t need. I think it’s still vital to interrogate why we want to buy something, what purpose it serves, and whether our sense of desire is genuine or fleeting. The thing that all my examples have in common is quality and authenticity - both practical considerations when it comes to how well clothing will age. Neither flimsy, poorly made pieces nor vacuous storytelling will stand the test of time.
That doesn’t mean that clothing has to be timeless aesthetically. Successful brand marketing is not the school of qu**t lu**ry, despite what last year’s frenzied coverage might suggest. It’s entirely possible to connect to the Zeitgeist, and still create something of lasting value. Dior’s saddlebag fell out of favour for a while, but when it came back it reminded people of a certain period, certain conversations. Thus the piece was born anew. Ashish’s sequins are fun whatever the weather. The impact of Martine Rose’s brilliant ideas will resonate way beyond the current hype.
For brand marketing to have a positive impact on the fashion industry, it must focus on two things: making excellent products for its audience and telling them the truth. Transparency with consumers is what will earn their trust and respect, values that go way beyond the retail price. It creates an ecosystem where we relate culturally and emotionally to our clothes in a genuine and lasting way. True Threads of Conversation, some might say ¯\_(ツ)_/¯.
For a deeper understanding of the current brand marketing landscape, I recommend reading
’s newsletter ‘The new rules of brand marketing’, and Business of Fashion’s recent articles ‘The Year Ahead: Why Brand Marketing in 2024 May Reclaim Its Glory Days’ and ‘Why 2024 Will Be the Year of the Brand’.And of course, you can discover which brand’s marketing efforts truly stand the test of time by listening to the Threads of Conversation podcast.
Threads of the week
I spoke on a fashion panel this week, so I wore my statement Marques’ Almeida puffer to look the part. I call it the influencer coat because it was in every street style picture c. 2016 (but, per above, it still works today). Worn underneath: Jacquemus trousers, vintage Coca Cola tee and secondhand Hugo Boss blazer. Boots and bag you already know.
Loose Threads
Particularly enjoyed this episode of i-D’s i-Dentity podcast, in which they explore Alté style.
I’m currently reading this book about the history of UK Rap and Grime - released two days ago. First week sales really help the book’s rankings and overall success, which is especially important for new authors. So if you’re going to buy it, buy it now!
I look forward to this newsletter every week. Always wonder how he has time to comb through all that content?!
Start your own Thread
Add your thoughts in the comments, and let me know which Threads of Conversation you want to hear about next.