A Thread about why Demna at Gucci makes sense

Fashion’s Game of Thrones is in full swing

I’m not usually into astrology, but when a friend told me that last week was cosmic mayhem, I believed her. In fashion, two seismic pieces of news dropped within mere hours of one another. First, Donatella Versace announced her retirement, and then, news broke that Balenciaga designer Demna would be taking over at Gucci. There’s a lot to say on this topic, so I tried to keep it concise(ish). Let’s discuss in the comments!

DEMNA + BALENCIAGA

To recap, Demna rose to fame as part of an avant-garde fashion collective called Vetements. Based in Paris, and later Zurich, Vetements quickly became known for their raw, subversive streetwear; an aggressive, sardonic vision of Eastern European grit and glamour. Although the brand was a collective, three key figures stuck out. The two brothers, Demna and Guram, and their stylist, Lotta Volkova.

As for Balenciaga, in 2012, Alexander Wang had been named as Nicolas Ghesquière’s successor (Ghesquière is now artistic director of Louis Vuitton womenswear). It quickly became clear that Wang’s brand of Downtown cool couldn’t scale to a big house like Balenciaga. So, in 2015, Kering CEO Francois Pinault shocked the fashion industry by announcing Demna as Balenciaga’s new creative lead.

Many were appalled - what were Kering thinking, appointing this streetwear guy to butcher Cristobal Balenciaga’s gilded legacy? The man who put gigantic hoodies on the runway, and prefers pointy, angry models to match the silhouettes of his bags and shoes?

But despite the shock factor of his collections, there was something about Demna’s iconoclasm that proved magnetic. Was he making fun of us? Was this all some big joke? Were we in on it? We couldn’t tell, so we leaned in to get a closer look. For some, it was like watching a car crash in slow motion. For others, it felt like fashion being reborn.

A NEW McQUEEN?

There are two things I keep hearing in fashion these days. One is that fashion is boring, and the other (related) is that people miss Alexander McQueen. But I always wonder, if McQueen was still alive today, would we feel as comfortable with his work?

In some respects, he’s very similar to Demna. Both designers grapple with the relationship between beauty and ugliness, staging overwhelming, immersive shows that centre around the dark underbelly of human nature (think of Voss, the spring/summer 2001 McQueen show where writer Michelle Olley reclined nude on a chaise longue inside a glass box, wearing a mask attached to a breathing tube. Or Horn of Plenty, autumn/ winter 2009, when models walked around a giant pile of trash, their lips painted like angry gobs of vinyl).

Balenciaga SS23, aka. the mud show, and ‘Voss’ by Alexander McQueen, SS01.

Like Demna, McQueen’s work showcased meticulous tailoring and couture techniques (don’t forget that Demna revived Balenciaga couture in 2021, proving he was also a master of craft).

It’s easy to laud someone once they’re gone, to view their work through the rosy tinted spectacles of nostalgia. But I think if McQueen was working today, he would receive the same complicated reception as Demna. Demna’s appointment brings to mind the old Matrix quandary - red pill or blue? Uncomfortable fashion that asks difficult questions? Or quiet luxury?

WHY GUCCI, WHY NOW?

Full moons or otherwise, Gucci’s had its own fair share of turbulence over the past few years. After living through a golden era under creative director Alessandro Michele (now installed at Valentino), who nearly tripled sales at the brand during his tenure, the brand appointed Sabato de Sarno to replace him in 2023.

Because Alessandro’s vision was so distinctive, there were concerns that consumers might tire of his all-in, extravagant look, especially as the first signs of quiet luxury began to appear. The brand tried the opposite approach with his successor, Sabato de Sarno, who presented a much more pared back vision for the brand. But after the excitement and flamboyance of Alessandro’s era, de Sarno’s work simply didn’t stick.

Gucci by Alessandro Michele, Gucci by Sabato de Sarno.

With Demna, we see Gucci returning to the tactic that proved so successful in the first place: appointing someone with more of a ‘marmite’ quality - a directional designer whose aesthetic people either love or hate. Either way, you feel something.

It’s also worth remembering that both Gucci and Balenciaga are owned by luxury conglomerate Kering (that’s how they pulled off that collab back in 2021). It’s in Kering’s interests to keep design talent in their stable, and especially to prevent them leaving for competitor LVMH. Perhaps after 10 years at Balenciaga, both Demna and Kering were feeling the itch. Thus it makes sense to move him on to a new challenge, and there are only a handful brands bigger and more exciting than Balenciaga.

WHERE DOES VERSACE COME IN?

I mentioned up top that the Demna/ Gucci announcement managed to overshadow Donatella Versace’s news (side note: can you imagine upstaging thee Donatella Versace?!) Succeeding her is a designer called Dario Vitale, who previously spent 10 years as design director at Miu Miu, working under Mrs Prada.

There are a few reasons why Vitali’s appointment is interesting. Last year, Versace’s parent company Capri Holdings attempted to merge with Tapestry, an American conglomerate. The move was blocked by a US judge, following a lawsuit by the Federal Trade Commission citing anti-competition concerns. Since then, rumours suggest Capri has been making other plans for Versace, and that the Prada group is a likely buyer.

If this is the case, then appointing Mrs. Prada’s longtime collaborator to lead the brand seems like a very Game of Thrones move, ensuring that Versace’s new vision is complementary to that of Prada and Miu Miu. An unknown quantity would pose a risk of tarnishing their reputation if Versace’s creative direction went sideways.

And now for how it relates to Demna and Balenciaga: whilst Vitale has been at Miu Miu for 10 years, it’s in the last 3 that the brand has really exploded. The thing that changed? Mrs Prada began working with stylist Lotta Volkova - the same stylist who came up with Demna and Vetements. Even if you don’t like the aesthetic, the influence of the Vetements alumni is everywhere in fashion today.

And in case your head is spinning, then here’s a graph I made:

It’s actually still quite confusing.

As for who I’d like to see at Balenciaga, I hope Martine Rose gets the job. Fun fact: She actually worked on Balenciaga menswear with Demna between 2015 and 2018, using the funds to turn her label into a business. It could also be Jonathan Anderson, who officially departed Loewe today, but most people seem sure he’s headed to Dior.

Oh, and if you’re wondering what happened to Guram, this story should give you a pretty good idea…

Thanks for reading! Hit the heart button if you made it this far.

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What did you think of the announcement? Are you shocked/ delighted/ horrified/ apathetic? Let’s chat about it in the comments.