A Thread about what I wore this year

The good, the bad and the fugly

In 2024, the concept of personal style became like the fashion version of Squid Game: find it or die! Win, and you’ll unlock riches. Personal style morphed into Personal StyleTM - a bloated, misshapen version of the original concept. Where Personal StyleTM is a construct to make you buy more clothes, personal style is an ongoing dialogue between inside and outside. What’s in your head, what’s happening around you, and how those forces shape what you choose to wear.

I like to see my fashion choices as a petri dish, something that I can examine to learn more about how I’m feeling, where I’ve been, or the person I’m trying to be. Join me as I peer through the microscope at the spores of 2024.

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A Tale of Two Aesthetics

Looking back at my outfits from this year, two clear style personalities emerged. Ironically, they had very little in common; a sartorial yin yang with no dots on either side. Night and day, on-off, 0-1, yes-no.

The first aesthetic I simply call ‘all-black-everything’ and it does what it says on the tin. It’s sleek, a little bit technical, and celebrates a total absence of colour. When I’m in this phase, tidying my clothes is a nightmare - a black hole of fabric where everything blends into one indistinguishable, inky blob.

This is the aesthetic I usually gravitate towards in winter. It offsets my baby face and makes me look like the kind of person who gets shit done. In one of these looks, I feel powerful, efficient and chic. The practicality of this aesthetic means I can forget about my outfit altogether, instead concentrating on what I need to do or where I have to go. I’ll often wear all-black when I have multiple appointments in a day, when I’m interviewing someone, or directing a shoot.

The second style personality is the complete opposite of this. I call him ‘stoner boyfriend’, and he’s the kind of louche, Californian skater type who probably takes days to text you back. This personality consists of oversized, colourful pieces, long-sleeved tees, lots of tie dye and an assortment of vintage sportswear. I embody this personality when I’m at home and want to feel cool, comfortable and creative. Sometimes I’ll add a sharp blazer or a sleek accessory to smarten it up for the office or the outside world.

Again, the focus is on clothing that doesn’t inhibit what I’m doing - whilst I love to experiment with styling, I hate anything too fussy. Clothes are a wrapper for my life, not the other way around.

Office Siren

The top story I wrote this year was about the fashion fan to business analyst pipeline. Like any true fashion business analyst, I love a suit.

The black blazer in these pictures is Hugo Boss. I bought it at Traid (a thrift store in London) a few years ago for £6. Sometimes I like to cinch it with a chain belt for a going-out look. The straight black trousers are secondhand Comme des Garçons Homme, and the black flares are Jacquemus. The grey suit is a beloved Miu Miu one from the original menswear line which shuttered in 2010. I did a charity sale in January 2020 and someone donated it. Nobody bought it, so I had the pants tailored to fit, and now I wear it all the time. Both pairs of boots are Ann Demeulemeester (I found the heeled ones on Vinted).

The One That Went Viral

One summer day, I got myself a pair of Vibram FiveFingers. I returned home and fired off a newsletter about why I bought them, the hot July weather sending me into a manic flow state not unlike that Bruce Almighty GIF. I hit send on the newsletter, blissfully unaware that I’d caught a trend spark that would later burst alight.

Over the next few months, FiveFinger fever spread across the fashion world. My newsletter was shared far and wide, and reporters from The Sydney Morning Herald and Vogue Business got in touch, seeking my ‘expert opinion’ for think pieces on the rise of the barefoot trend. On social media, photos of my new shoes stirred strong reactions. I don’t post much on TikTok, but the video I made about the problem with FiveFingers was by far my most popular post.

I wore my new toe shoes all through summer, retiring them as the colder months drew in. Personally, I think the discourse around them has all got a bit much - another novelty item steamrolled by the trend cycle’s breathless pile on. I’m yet to decide if I’ll keep wearing them next year, but for now, let’s revisit my halcyon days as a FiveFinger influencer. (FYI I originally bought the strappy pair, but swapped them for the mesh ballet flats).

@threads_of_conversationwrote about buying these babies in my latest Threads of Conversation newsletter. Read on Substack #vibram #fivefingers

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Great Buy no.1

Not to sound like a nauseating purist, but I buy most of my clothes secondhand. As a result, I spend a lot of time on resale platforms. Depop is my favourite, mainly because I’ve honed my algorithm to perfection through years of buying and selling on the app. I regularly succumb to the siren call of my ‘suggested for you’ page, which is where I discovered most of my best purchases this year.

The first Great Buy is a pair of knee high black boots from COS, where my friend Leonie Barth used to design their shoes and accessories (she’s the one behind that super popular quilted bag). She’s a stickler for quality and precision, and very stylish, so I know anything she’s designed will be superior to the usual high street fare.

When these boots popped up on my suggestions page, I messaged Leonie to ask if they were hers. When she said yes, I smashed the checkout button immediately. I think they were around £70 secondhand, and every time I wear them people ask me where they’re from. I usually style them with long shorts like the adidas basketball shorts or the Issey Miyake Homme Plisse ones above. They also look good with leggings and a big top.

If you’re thinking of buying knee high boots online, I’d recommend getting the measurements for the shaft and width of the boot, to see how high they’ll come on your leg, and how they’ll fit around your calf.

Great Buy no.2

Shopping secondhand online can be a bit like a fairytale. Meaning you have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find your prince. I’ve had a few frogs along the way - the Mugler vinyl trousers that I could barely fit over my thighs, or the cheap black boots that left my socks covered in debris because the lining was disintegrating.

This year, my prince was Dries van Noten, more specifically a pair of tie dye DVN men’s jeans. Prior to this purchase, I’d been a devout worshipper of Levi’s 501s, of which I own about 5 different pairs in various colours and washes. One thing about 501s, though, is that they’re pretty unforgiving. They’re like the almond mom of jeans, regarding you disdainfully when you gain a few pounds. Most of mine are pretty tight these days, so wearing them is both physically and psychically uncomfortable.

I decided to put my Levi’s into storage and buy these ones instead - jeans that actually fit me and make me feel good. Speaking of fit, I wasn’t sure on my size, so I tried on a pair of new ones in a department store to figure out if the Depop ones were right. I guess it’s kind of sneaky, but trying things in-store can be a great way to get familiar with a brand’s sizing before hunting for pieces on resale sites.

Great Buy no.3

I’ve loved vintage shopping since I was a teenager, but I don’t have time to trawl the shops like I used to. My style has also changed - I’m less of a band girlie these days, and a lot of vintage stores cater to this more rock’n’roll, retro aesthetic. Still, I like to poke around every once in a while, simply to keep my magpie muscles in shape.

I found this silky shirt at Reign Vintage in London’s Soho. It drapes beautifully, and has an Ann Demeulemeester vibe. The sheerness and fluidity make it quite sexy, especially if you wear it open with a nice bra or nothing underneath. It also looks great (and more work appropriate) unbuttoned with a plain white tank, and is thin enough not to bulk under a jacket. I’ve recently started knotting the bottom of it and wearing it with high rise pants and a chain link silver belt.

Great Buy no.4

As I mentioned, one of the foundations of my Stoner Boyfriend persona is a long-sleeve tee. This one is from a brand called Total Luxury Spa, an LA label founded by designers Daniel DeSure and Hassan Rahim. I love the graphic design and their community mindset, and the fact that the brand has never got as hyped as, say, Always Do What You Should Do or Online Ceramics (who are great, I just see them in the wild much more often).

I became obsessed with this shirt after seeing this picture of Kelsey Lu in one of their campaigns. Sadly, the size I wanted was sold out. I checked back every few months in hope, and even DMed the brand, but it continued to elude me.

Then earlier this year, a cursory glance at the website revealed that my size was back in stock. I ordered one to my friend’s house in the States, so they could bring it back to London with them. Of course the parcel arrived the day after they left, so I waited months for their next visit. When I finally got it, I was elated. I wore it non-stop, and when I made my own trip to the USA in November, of course it came too. There, I stupidly left it at a friend’s house. She kindly posted it to my partner, who was in the US for work, and he brought it back to me on Christmas Day. A Christmas miracle!

The Basics

I’m still searching for The Perfect White Tee, but I do have answers for The Perfect Black Turtleneck and The Perfect White Tank. The turtleneck is this merino wool one from COS, which is a great thermal base layer for winter, but also really chic. I like that it’s a bit sheer, so if you wear it under a jacket you can see a bit of bra poking through. I have several on rotation - I wash them pretty carelessly in the washing machine and they seem to survive just fine. I did try the white one but I looked like a billionaire on an Alpine ski holiday, and not in a good way.

The tanks come in a multipack from Hanes kids - I buy the biggest size available, usually age 10-12 or so. My last batch have gone a bit sad and grey, so I just ordered another 5-pack. Still, they last a good few years, and even look quite cool when they wear out, in a Love Lies Bleeding kinda way.

An honourable mention also goes to Lido, the Venice-based swimwear brand whose bikinis and one-pieces I’ve been wearing since making a video for them during lockdown. They’re simple, elegant and sexy, and the quality is great. I’ve had mine for years, and still no sign of sagging.

Three Great Jackets

I read something funny in

Haley Nahman

’s newsletter recently where she said, “another pair of pants is not going to fix your lack of tops”. This is me all over - I have so many pairs of pants, but the two basics mentioned above comprise most of the tops in my arsenal. Instead, all my upper body energy is diverted into jackets. Here are three of my favourites:

From L-R: The first is my beloved MA-1 bomber, which I bought at a market in Brick Lane around 2016. It cost me £20 and I wear it all winter, every winter. It’s lost a bit of its puffiness over the years, and the collar is starting to pill, but I just can’t find one in the same quality or silhouette. The style is very ubiquitous, but trust me, not all bombers are created equal.

The middle picture is a recycled polyester worker jacket from my friend’s brand, FORMA. He gave it to me in return for appearing in their first campaign, and it’s become the centrepiece of the all-black-everything side of my wardrobe. It’s incredibly versatile, never creases, and always looks crisp and chic. Luckily for you, they just reissued a wool version.

The last jacket is a recent addition - it was a gift from adidas from their relaunched 90s Equipment line. It makes me feel like I’ve stepped out of a Guy Ritchie movie, real geezer energy. It also has a removable sleeveless lining, so it’s cosy for winter. I think it officially releases in January, but you can find vintage versions here, here, here and here.

Something Sexy

Longtime readers will have heard me bang on about my love for Santangelo, the jewellery brand founded by my wonderful pal Anna (I also wrote the brand bio!) She’s probably one of the most stylish people I know - if you don’t believe me, check out her rare designer archive shop, Hot Dips.

Santangelo waist chains are sooo sexy and beautiful - they remind me of hot sweaty holidays and beach romance.

You can also wear them as a belt, to cinch a loose flowy shirt, as a necklace, or even to embellish a ponytail. I like wearing mine with my gym gear when I’m working out - such an athleisure upgrade.

My Biggest Fashion Moment

You can read all about this one here.

Areas That Need Work

1. I’m still pretty stumped when it comes to my summer style. I love layers, big jackets and textures - most of which are antithetical to hot weather. My default is a pair of cycling shorts and a big vintage t-shirt, but I’d really like to develop at least one other workable summer ensemble.

2. My underwear drawer is due a refresh. I recently ordered a 3-pack from Gush, the cheeky brand founded by Hannah Richtman, who I interviewed for one of my first newsletters. I also need to deep dive into

   laura reilly
   ’s piece de résistance.

3. Lastly, I love going out. Like, out out, to the club. But despite the fact that I go out quite a lot, I still don’t really have a good ‘party outfit’. I’d like to figure out a couple of cute looks, something with the same energy as Keira Knightley’s immortal going out top. Unfortunately, the success of this mission will hinge on my ability to buy tops - not my strong suit! I think this Nadine Mos is a good start.

Have you listened to the Threads of Conversation podcast? You can find it here, or on Apple Podcasts or Spotify. Subscribe below for more Threads of Conversation, and follow on Instagram and TikTok.

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Loose Threads

Wake up babe, new Little Simz track just dropped. Plenty of fashion references, too:

I ain't gotta be what they on or be in the latest drop
I just want my ends and I want Miu Miu with the same damn bop
Tell me why they all dress the same, carbon copy thesis
I cut you with a Japanese silhouette, I know you ain't never seen these pieces
SS Simz '25, you ain't never seen this season

There seems to be a trend for designers eulogizing their past work before launching something new. We got it with Stefano Pilati, who recounted his tenure at (Yves) Saint Laurent via lengthy Instagram captions before announcing his new Zara collaboration. Now Hedi Slimane (another Saint Laurent alum) has started a cryptic new Instagram account featuring similarly detailed descriptions of his greatest hits. After his recent exit from Céline, maybe this is a clue about what Slimane is up to next...

Rema’s new video goes hard. The eerie woodland setting reminds me of Alexander McQueen’s AW24 campaign.

Loved

ART DIRECTION

’s edition of the Ins and Outs list.

How does everyone feel about this?

Me preparing for 2025.

Start your own Thread

What did you wear this year? Did you learn anything interesting from your style choices? What are your thoughts on the Personal StyleTM discourse at large? Let’s discuss in the comments.