My guest this week is the director and writer Caleb Femi. As a filmmaker, Femi has produced numerous short films, including Giraffe, which was selected for this year’s Sundance Film Festival. He’s also directed episodes of the HBO show Industry, and BBC’s Champion. Femi’s filmmaking work has also caught the fashion industry's eye - he was a frequent collaborator of Virgil Abloh during the designer’s Louis Vuitton tenure, directing and performing in a number of campaign films for the brand before Abloh’s passing in 2021. He’s also been tapped by Bottega Veneta, and recently worked with stylist Ib Kamara on Jamilah Barry’s new music video, ‘Uber Ride’.
His debut book, Poor, was released in 2020 to huge critical acclaim. The book is an anthology of poems about growing up in Peckham, covering themes of youth, love, race and class, and features his photography as an accompaniment to the text. As a lover of words and clothes, I’ve been a big fan of Femi’s work for many years. Here, we cover Orange Wednesdays, cursed shirts, freezing film shoots, and a suit so good he picked it twice.
You can also listen on Apple Podcasts or Spotify. Subscribe for more Threads of Conversation and follow on Instagram and TikTok.
Caleb in the piece that reminds him of his childhood: “This is me on my eighth birthday. This t-shirt is from Orange [the phone company]. I think it was a promo tee. I supported Holland at the time in terms of the football World Cup, but I couldn't afford a Netherlands shirt. This was my favourite shirt for like three years. I think this was the first time I wore it, and then I wore it probably once a week for the next three years… I just wanted to wear stuff that triggered my imagination. So wearing this orange shirt, I felt like I was part of something bigger. I felt like I was a footballer.”
The piece that reminds Caleb of his career: “This jacket is one of my favourite purchases ever. It’s literally like wearing a duvet. It’s a collab between Ader Error and Puma. I remember wearing it a lot for shooting Industry - we shot in Berlin in the middle of winter. It was brutal. But I was fine because I had this jacket.”
One piece that represents a high: “So this was for Louis Vuitton’s Spring / Summer ’22 collection. This was the show fit for me - it’s an absolutely gorgeous white suit. I was given a katana Samurai sword as an accessory as well. It was my first proper fashion show as someone who’s not behind the camera, but in front. And it was a high because I’m not a model - none of this is me, but to be able to step in for a moment in time and look back and be like, ‘Ah, I got to experience a small element of life as a model,’ - especially for something I had a real emotional connection to - just felt good.”
“Fashion is so fleeting. Everything is here today, gone tomorrow. So I thought, just enjoy this and take as many photos as you can. And maybe your children, when you’re much older and they’ve grown up, this might be some cool points for you.”
Caleb in the piece that reminds him of a low (coincidentally also the shirt he wore on the day we recorded the episode): “Mentally I just wasn’t in a good place. I was in this existential space, just like, what’s going on? Where’s my life going? What is the point of the work that I’m doing? Coming out of lockdown and being back in the world and figuring stuff out again.”
The outfit that made him feel a part of something: “This is a very old picture of me from maybe 10 years ago. I was in I was in a collective at the time [sxwks], spanning all artistic disciplines, and this was our first exhibition. This is Lex Amor. As you can see, we’re kind of co-ordinating. I’ve got a white shirt on, she has a white shirt on, I have a hat to the back and she has a hat on as well. We look like a bit of a bit of a duo here.”
The piece that reminds Caleb of a great party: “This is last summer. I was at a RECESS party. I think it was my first proper summer party at the time, and it felt good. My hair was brown - I’d just dyed it. I love this shirt, it’s amazing. It’s a bit short, so if my hands are in the air it gives crop top a bit! RECESS is a very significant night in terms of nightlife culture in London. They’re an incredible space for young Londoners who just want to have a good time.”
The piece that makes him feel sexy: “I’m wearing a black Avirex leather jacket. When I was a kid in secondary school - I think I was about 15 - Avirexes were super ‘in’. They just look so good and I always wanted to own one - so fast-forward to when I had a bit of spare cash I was able to buy one, and as soon as I put it on, I was like, ‘I get it’. A good leather jacket is just sex on legs. Maybe there’s something in your spirit that shifts, but all of a sudden you move differently. You can’t take a bad photo!”
The one that got away:
“This is backstage at the Louis Vuitton S/S ’22 show. I would get married in this suit - it’s just that gorgeous to me. I was looking out for it. I was going to wait until it came out, but I either missed it or it actually never came out. So I feel like it got away from me, because I’ve never been given the opportunity to purchase it.”
Also mentioned in Caleb’s Threads…
The film Caleb directed to introduce Virgil Abloh’s final Louis Vuitton show.
Caleb’s short film, Again and Again.
Threads of the week
I am obsessed with what upcyclist and designer Chloe Baines has managed to do to my blazer and jeans. Previously they sat unworn in my cupboard, now they’re the coolest items I own. Such is the power of customising your clothes!
Loose Threads
Enjoyed watching Eric Hu’s latest talk at Nicer Tuesdays in NYC.
This is really sad. Cola Boyy is the best so support him by buying his merch!
A great interview with Recho Omndi. Her podcast is well worth paying for.
Start your own Thread
Add your thoughts in the comments, and let me know which Threads of Conversation you want to hear about next!
Sharing is caring. Send these Threads of Conversation to a friend and subscribe for all the latest. You can also catch up on the podcast on Spotify or Apple Podcasts - if you like it, then pls leave a (5 star) rating!
A Thread about Caleb Femi