Have you played the fashion week drinking game? Every time you hear the words ‘musical chairs’, you take a drink.
If you’d been sitting in The Cinema at Selfridges last Thursday, the drinks in question would have been a ‘Margielarita’, ‘In-fashioned’, or ‘Matthieu’s mocktail’ - custom Threads of Conversation cocktails for our inaugural London LIVE event, where we discussed everything that happened at the shows this season.
The panel included my longtime collaborator, the fabulous Emma Davidson, fashion features director of Dazed, who joined me last season and the one before to unpack everything she saw in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Alongside us was former Threads of Conversation podcast guest Willy Ndatira, aka. William Cult, a curator and art director who lent his astute insights to proceedings (including a very measured take on THAT Jean Paul Gaultier debut…).
In our final hot seat, Beauty Editor Dominic Cadogan, a writer and editor whose career spans Glamour, Dazed Beauty, i-D, 10 Magazine and System.
Together we discussed the key collections amongst the 13 (!) new creative directors who made their debuts this season. From Demna’s glittering film premiere, to Dario Vitale’s subversive and steamy Versace, to Jonathan Anderson’s sugar-spun Dior and Duran Lantink’s controversial penis-print JPG bodysuits.
Watch the video above (or on YouTube), or listen to it on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or in the Substack player above. Plus, see pictures and links to some of the things we discussed below.
A massive thank you to Selfridges for supporting such a chic and fun evening, and to the wonderful panellists, Emma, Willy and Dom.
Subscribe to Threads of Conversation for more podcast episodes, interviews and essays. You can also follow Threads of Conversation on Instagram and TikTok. And if you enjoy the episode, then hit the heart button!
The Big Debuts
Our London Fashion Week favourites:
A few more things we mentioned…
‘The Tiger’ film by Gucci/ Demna
Gucci’s Milanese portrait series
Julia Roberts and Amanda Seyfriend in Versace, and Anya Taylor Joy and Alba Rohrwacher in Dior at the Venice Film Festival
Shoe designer Nina Christen
Meghan Markle and Anne Hathaway sitting front row at Balenciaga
Martina Tiefenthaler (interviewed on Threads of Conversation here)
Glenn Marten’s Margiela Artisanal show
Heikke Salonen, MM6 designer
Marc Jacobs’ first Louis Vuitton collection
Threads of the week
To host the talk, I wore a look from my favourite London/ Estonian designer Johanna Parv. Holding the book ‘Blow by Blow’ about the legendary Isabella Blow (lent to me by one of the audience!)
Start your own Thread
I want to hear what YOU thought of the shows! Do you agree/ disagree with our analysis? Which debut was your favourite? Drop your thoughts in the comments.


























