Before we get into it, an announcement: Threads of Conversation LIVE is back! London readers, join me on 12 March for a live podcast recording where we’ll be dissecting the key moments from The Big Four fashion weeks - from Mark Zuckerberg sitting front row at Prada to Demna’s divisive Gucci runway debut. What does it all mean?? Come along to find out.
With me on the panel are Dazed’s Fashion Features Director Emma Davidson, art director and all-round soothsayer Willy Ndatira (aka. @williamcult), plus fashion’s favourite TikTok queen Chani Ra.
We’ll also have a secondhand fashion pop-up from my favourite curator, I Have Something Better, who I cooed over in The Face magazine last year. Come for the gossip, stay for the vintage Prada!
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Looking at my camera roll from February, there are a lot of photos of my shower and my boiler, both of which broke. Amongst these, some evidence of London fashion week. Here are my highlights from the latter:
My favourite shows
Lueder
Marie Lueder has a knack for saying the hard part out loud, as evidenced by the success of her ‘Men Are So Back’ t-shirt last season. This time she showed one that read ‘Sorry, No Budget’ before sending out actress and activist Rose McGowan in a bright red bomber. Rose was one of the most prominent women to speak out against Harvey Weinstein, and her appearance came the day after Prince Andrew’s arrest, and in the midst of the Epstein files muck.
Other model cameos included musician Lava La Rue, nightlife icon Princess Julia and illustrator Clym Evernden, who I recognized because he designed the Liberty Beauty Advent calendar (I worked on the campaign last year). The show was followed by a party at LN-CC, where MRWIZE and The Femcels performed in a sweaty basement. It felt like an actual party, not a fashion party. Go Marie!
Selasi
On Saturday morning I attended the Selasi show, the brand founded by photographer/ artist/florist Ronan Mckenzie. I always love her conceptual approach; this time the show was set in a gym, a nod to her reputation as ‘Queen of PE’ in high school, and also to the theme of stamina, namely the stamina it takes to survive in the creative industries. Feels like a lot of creatives are making work about how difficult it is to be one these days. A shudder of nostalgia ran through the audience when the models did the bleep test mid-show. An apt metaphor.
I spotted Henrietta Gallina amongst the cast, and on the front row were model Alva Claire and director Akinola Davies Jr, whose film ‘My Father’s Shadow’ won a BAFTA the following day. If you haven’t seen the film - it’s absolutely beautiful, although the emotional heft is like a slow-mo punch in the chest. I cried!
On each seat, Mckenzie had left a copy of Selasi Stories. After reading it, I used it to wrap my niece’s birthday present - because every 7-year-old should have strong, creative women to inspire them.
Johanna Parv
Saturday night was the Johanna Parv show, held in a brutalist basement. Johanna’s clothes are designed for an independent woman cycling around the city, and in the middle of the runway were sculptures made from rows of recycled bike seats. Surprise! I was sitting on one of them. From my tiny triangular perch, I watched Johanna’s best collection yet: technical but couture-like, minimalist but not austere. The models walking in unison reminded me of a photo I’d seen by Sarah van Rij at MEP Paris recently. Congratulations to Lisa Dymph on the excellent casting.
Chicest events
Cultured Mag x eBay
On Thursday night, I rumbled across London on the central line to a v glamorous cocktail party at Cece’s, held by Cultured Mag and eBay, and hosted by Camille Charriere and stylist Alexandra Cronan. It felt inky and velvety, with a mirrored staircase like the famous one in Coco Chanel’s rue Cambon HQ, and sexy bathrooms perfect for going to the bathroom only, obviously.
BFC Welcome Breakfast
Sipping tea in old school London elegance at The Delaunay alongside past podcast guests Lyas and Chani Ra, where we enjoyed a rousing speech from the BFC’s leader Laura Weir. LFW is back, baby!
Ewusie @ Space Talk
On Sunday I stopped by listening-bar-cum-sushi-lounge Space Talk to see a panel with designer Ewusie. It was organised by Cynthia Igbokwe, who I think has the best taste in London. She’s also the person behind experimental pianist Precious Renee Tucker’s London show (Tucker wore an Ewusie gown).
After the talks, photographer Liz Johnson Artur played some tracks on the custom Friendly Pressure soundsystem. They don’t allow photos inside, so I have nothing to show you.
What I wore
My fashion mood right now is subversive Madame, cemented by the purchase of an SS13 oil slick Junya Watanabe skirt. Each seam is a zipper which opens to reveal technical mesh beneath, an effect I added to by wearing it with fishnets. Below is me trying it on in the store (with my Vibrams, ofc), and wearing it with a bitchy heel for an event. Call me Carine etc.
What I read
I finally finished Tina Brown’s ‘Vanity Fair Diaries’. It was very 80s and very amusing - Brown’s prose has an old-school copywriter’s flair, harking back to a time when words were as bold and bombastic as the decade’s shoulder pads and hairdos. Her descriptions are very funny and very crucifying - there’s no PR pandering here. What a luxury to not worry about pissing anyone off! Some notable mentions:
“Murdoch’s face has degenerated to the melting rubber mask of a cartoon character” (Rupert Murdoch)
“He looks at me with suspicion like a manic, whiskery prawn” (Leo Lerman, ex-VF editor)
“She’s such an odd duck with her glaucoma look and total absence of conversation. But she does have a flair for a guest list.” (Alice Mason)
“Norman sat with his legs akimbo like a macho koala” (Norman Mailer)
“He still has cascades of wrinkly melted plastic neck and that maddening oldster vagueness.” (Ronald Reagan)
A final note…
Turns out cold showers are actually quite enlivening. I guess Victoria Beckham was right.
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Love the report and the wrapper paper is the cherry on the cake x